Vagabond Kitchen

This restaurant in Wheeling, West Virginia, showcases chef Matt Welsch’s unique approach to some of the Mountain State’s favorite dishes.

Fruit pie with whipped cream at Vagabond Kitchen in Wheeling, West Virginia (photo courtesy of Vagabond Kitchen)

Chef Matt Welsch likes to describe the cuisine at his Vagabond Kitchen in Wheeling as elevated takes on Appalachian comfort food favorites that allow him to put his own spin on regional specialties. 

Take his Just Dew It Chicken. It features chicken that’s been marinated in Mountain Dew soda (along with other citrus flavors) before it’s grilled and served alongside shaved Brussels sprout slaw and strawberry barley salad. 

Instead of preparing his Mountaintop Meatloaf with ground beef, Welsch uses ground pork and steak, adding tomato bacon gravy with sides of smoked baked beans and cheesy garlic mashed potatoes. Whatever regional fare he’s featuring, from deviled eggs to frogs’ legs, Welsch puts his own flavorful stamp on each dish. 

He refers to himself as a “culinary anthropologist,” studying old-time recipes that he finds in libraries or old church cookbooks. 

As the resident vagabond of Vagabond Kitchen, Welsch has traveled the country on his motorcycle looking for culinary inspiration. He prepares every dish from scratch, using local, high-quality ingredients to create his seasonally changing menu. This fall and winter, diners can expect to see dishes like a smoked rabbit cornbread casserole, coffee-rubbed steak or a version of a patty melt on rye bread with caramelized onions, cheese and gravy. 

Although Welsch aims for fine dining tastes, the simple atmosphere at Vagabond Kitchen ensures all who dine here are comfortable. 1201 Market St., Wheeling, West Virginia 26003, 304/905-6173, thevagabondkitchen.com